September 6, 2008

Between them, designer Christophe Lemaire and show producer Alex de Betak are making Lacoste a master class in how to add oomph to the most basic sportswear. Take a cast of thousands (okay, hundreds), turn on the smiles, pump up the volume, and take it away, Christophe. Spring's collection was divided into three groups. The first had an earthy, sandy mood. The second was burnt oranges, hot pinks—a sunset vibe. The last group was graphic black and white, styled like a group for golfers, but equally reminiscent of the Specials and the rest of the Twin Tone bands in England in the late seventies. It reads like a hodgepodge on paper, but when it was on the catwalk, it was easy to imagine every Mediterranean hot spot being deluged with people wearing the croc this time next year. The show notes made a point of the label's new pitch to "a younger, more fashion-alert consumer," and there was certainly youth aplenty in the elasticized-waist pleated pant that Lemaire was promoting. Maybe too much so—the look was a tad petit garçon français. On the other hand, who but a hoary old umpire is going to wear that kelly green blazer?

— Tim Blanks